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One day after the suffocating zombie experience at the Vatican Museum, you might be forgiven for furtively looking over your shoulder at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme museum and wonder, "Where is everybody? Try finding a better 2,000-year-old discus thrower, and wonder how so much human expression could be put in a bronze like the boxer.

And here you can circle it from every angle with nary another tourist in sight.

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Try as one might, there was no way out but to go with the dense flow of sweaty humanity.

This was the Vatican Museum with its endless galleries of some of the finest art Western civilization had ever produced -- scores of highlights obstructed from full view by fellow journeymen, many of whom were trying to make the most of a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

One hapless tourist took pictures of the explanatory panels, unable to stand still and actually read them, before being swept up and moved along, up to the next masterpiece hidden from proper view.

The canals have a charm all their own and you will find a similar waft of weed coming out of its many "cafes." In Italy, instead of Florence, spare a thought for Ferrara.

When in Belgium, bypass Bruges and go for nearby Ghent, and what you lose in quaintness, you win in student grit.

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